


Taliaferro Memorial
Nature, beauty, art, and death – what more do you need when celebrating the circle of life? How about a party hat and a fruity drink with a little umbrella? Though Bonaventure means "Good Fortune" let’s not forget the life insurance. After all, it isn’t everyday that you have the opportunity to walk amongst war veterans, actors, government elite, Academy Award winners and others that make up a veritable cornucopia of ghostly goodness. One of them might have taken a liking to you. Just thank your lucky stars you won’t be rubbing elbows on this trip.
American Legion Field at Bonaventure Cemetery (Veterans of World Wars)

Bonaventure’s specter saga begins with the American Revolutionary War when Bonaventure acted as a hospital for French troops who were doing their dead level best to capture Savannah from the British. Anyone who has ever visited Savannah knows that she is a city worth fighting for. Thankfully… er… tragically, many French troops died awaiting care sought at Bonaventure. Do their spirits seek solace even today?
If a ghost named Pierre sidling up to you with a cigarette hanging from his mouth does not, however, get your juices flowing then there are far more ghosts to choose from. Bonaventure is the resting ground to many soldiers. The Revolutionary, Civil, Spanish-American, Vietnam, Korean, World, and Gulf Wars are all represented amongst these sacred markers.
Conrad Aiken Memorial

Edythe Chapman, Actress
Now, one could argue that Mrs. Edythe Chapman may have more of what it takes to be a discontented spirit. Silent films were never truly given their due. Have you ever contemplated the intricacies of conveying a broken heart with no words and it not being received as a wicked case of indigestion? Mrs. Chapman was one of the finest of silent screen actors, being known as “Hollywood’s Mother” in the 1920s. Making movies with a man such as Cecil B. Demille should offer you some notoriety yet there are not nearly the trails of feet tracking amidst Edythe’s grave that there are elsewhere.



Of course, this little tour of the inner, deeper, you is made possible by your putting two and two together: Gracie's memorial and John Walz's lack thereof. Most folks just check out the lovely marble girl, read the sad story, and proceed on with their fast food lives, begging for a juicy tidbit of information that they can construe into a blood curdling tale of which would curl the toes of Michael Myers.



No. The faint imprint of variously sized Crocs are primarily around such sites as Johnny Mercer’s and Little Gracie’s graves. If Mr. Mercer’s name does not ring a bell then you have announced yourself as a tourist. No one will hold that against you, not in the heartland of Southern hospitality. You will simply be educated. You might be surprised at what you already know, in fact. Ever heard of “Hooray for Hollywood,” “You Must Have Been a Beautiful Baby,” “Jeepers, Creepers”? No? All right, you will get a pass on those but you should probably widen your musical repertoire if you haven’t heard of Mr. Mercer’s most-famous “Moon River.” This world-famous Academy Award winner is buried in Bonaventure Cemetery and this site is hard to miss. With its majestic cross watching over his family’s graves and a reflection bench engraved with many of his song titles, his caricature, and his autograph it’s hard to miss.

No one can truly put his or her finger on why “Little” Gracie Watson has become such a ray of sunshine in this plantation of the dearly departed. One can only assume that her story touches that uncorrupt part that still somehow resides within the iniquitous, and often cynical, marrow we call our souls. Gracie, with her wavy locks and bowtie mouth, is the shining light of reality that bursts through the crap-storm of drama that is our daily lives. Allow me to explain.
Gracie was born in 1883 and was an only child to a father who managed the Pulaski Hotels. “Little” Gracie was known as a sort of hostess to all of the guests. Described as “beautiful and charming” the guests cherished her up until 1889 when the only child of Mr. and Mrs. Watson lamentably closed her big eyes for the last time at the tender age of six. Pneumonia had claimed a very young life. When John Walz, a rising sculptor who has many examples of his work within Bonaventure Cemetery, moved to Savannah in 1890, he was so stirred by the effect that Gracie’s presence, and then the lack thereof, had on her family and the many guests that frequented Watson’s hotels that he felt compelled to immortalize her in marble by carving her likeness from a photograph.

Gravesite of John Walz, Sculptor
Ironically, Mr. Walz was buried at Bonaventure with no headstone to speak of. This story is a fabulous catalyst to a proper, albeit personal, paradigm shift; how easily we reap the benefits of the product of someone's thoughtfulness while we so easily forget the thoughtful one himself. Gracie’s story centers us while John Walz's twist on that story rocks our world. Gracie's story reminds us of the sweet innocence of children and that at one time innocence once resided in each of us. It goes even deeper to remind us that simply being that welcoming presence in someone’s life can make a significant difference. All the while, Walz's story reminds us that we should seek reward in what we are doing for others rather than seeking reward for what we have done for others.

Of course, this little tour of the inner, deeper, you is made possible by your putting two and two together: Gracie's memorial and John Walz's lack thereof. Most folks just check out the lovely marble girl, read the sad story, and proceed on with their fast food lives, begging for a juicy tidbit of information that they can construe into a blood curdling tale of which would curl the toes of Michael Myers.

If you do find yourself seeking after such dubious goings-on, please note that Bonaventure Cemetery has a strict closing time of 5 o’clock. A nice gentleman will be standing at the large iron gates ready to shut and lock them. It does cause one to wonder. Is it me they are trying to keep out or something nefarious they are attempting to keep in? The only noted after-hour visitors have been Minerva and the dogs. Minerva, as readers of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil know, was the most famous of Voodoo priestesses in Savannah and she had an appreciation for Bonaventure Cemetery, not to mention a respect for the spirits within. Was her passion so strong that her spirit is collecting soil for her many spells still today? I will leave you to figure that one out. As for the dogs, well, just make sure you are out of the gates by five o’clock. There’s nothing quite like being chased down by a pack of ghost dogs to rack up the therapy bills.
You see, there is a whole other side of this cathartic wonderland. Just as dusk begins to appear, the sun setting behind the old oak trees leaving the Wilmington River to be cast in the moon’s glow, fog rolls through the cemetery from off of that same river and an eerie feeling settles over you. Your heartbeat begins to match that of the bass line in Dr. John’s rendition of “Season of the Witch.” You instinctively look around, expecting an old black woman in a Voodoo gown to creep up on you and ask you if you want your bones read. Dogs begin to bark in the distance, raising the hair on the back of your neck. Thankfully, just then, a groundskeeper honks and pulls his truck up to nicely remind you – with Southern hospitality – that this esoteric haven of perverse beauty, which has quickly become a necropolis of nightmare proportions, closes promptly in four minutes. You make your way back to your car and wave at the nice gentleman at the gate, leaving with just one question, “Did that statue just wink at me?”